Visiting Friendship Hall | 友谊会堂一览

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常对来上海玩的朋友说,要看现代化摩天大楼就去浦东,要看有历史的漂亮房子必来浦西。不过浦西的这些漂亮的历史建筑,要么是被改建成超级豪华的会所,要么是被大人物圈起来连门牌都不会挂出来,要么就是外面光鲜里面挤着72家房客苦不堪言。今天文中介绍的上海展览中心友谊会堂,算是历史建筑里少有几个被拿来作为公共活动空间使用,造福广大市民群众的了。
上海展览中心,又称“中苏友好大厦”,位于南京西路1333号。这简简单单的两个名字就把这座建筑的前世今生说的非常清楚了。大厦建于1955年,由前苏联建筑艺术家安德列耶夫设计,具有气势恢宏的古典俄罗斯风格,作为建国后首个建造的大型建筑,在这里举办过许多重大政治、外事活动。如今也是各类展会、展览青睐的活动场地。(八卦一下,黄晓明和天使宝贝结婚酒宴也是摆在这里。)“友谊会堂”则是展览中心建筑群中位于北侧的一座大礼堂,本身方正气派,曾经作为剧场和电影院使用,如今则是举办各种重要活动的场所。友谊会堂通过有顶回廊和其他楼体连结在一起。在北面的南京路一侧还设有一座铜马雕像,承托出这座礼堂的特别地位和不凡气质。
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友谊会堂南京西路正门。
The front of the Friendship Hall.

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背面装点极具俄罗斯风格的门窗。
The back of the Friendship Hall.

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有顶回廊把友谊会堂和别的楼梯练结在一起。
The Friendship Hall is also connected with the other sections by the covered porches.

我每年都会拿到一些上海书展的票,其实我对人多的地方一直没有什么兴趣,但是可以凭票走进这座历史建筑,还是有点吸引力。于是周日趁着还不算太热,带上水和小书包就出发了。南京西路的“友谊会堂”入口排队买票的人已经排成长龙,幸好手中有赠票,可以不用排队,径直往里走。过了安检就来到展览中心内部最漂亮的大厅。大厅穹顶极具俄罗斯古典建筑富丽堂皇的风格,还装饰着前苏联独特的意识形态元素,让每个来到这里的人们都不由惊叹,拿起相/手机纷纷拍下如此特别的景观。上海书展自然也是把活动标识和力推的图书放在这个位置展出!

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华美的穹顶和吊灯,活动标识和人类进步的阶梯,融合在了一起。
Books are the ladders of human progress.

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一年一度的上海书展从这里开始。
Shanghai Book Fair starts from here.

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融合前苏联元素的俄罗斯古典艺术风格。
The design combines the Russian Empire style with the Stalinist innovations.

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融合前苏联元素的俄罗斯古典艺术风格。
The design combines the Russian Empire style with the Stalinist innovations.

穿过这道大门,就来到了展览的正厅。说实话,这种历史建筑融精雕细琢于恢宏壮观,气派真的不是所谓现代设计的建筑所能比拟的。往上看一道道弧形穹顶桁梁撑起整个大厅庄严的空间感,往下看这针插不进的人潮汹涌还颇有些上帝视角!
无奈我恐高空水恐人潮,一进正厅,脑海里第一个反应就是“我要出去”,但是为了避免事故,入口只能单向进出,所以我还不得不投入这人民的汪洋大海中寻找出口。跟着摩肩接踵的人潮慢慢移动,环顾四周,所有摊位都挤满了人,到处是扫码领小礼品,期间还零星加了几个德克士小食摊卖炸鸡(不知道交了多少保护费),所谓的书香也早就被炸鸡香味盖过了。如沙丁鱼般慢慢挪动,倒是有机会可以慢慢欣赏建筑内部装饰细节,古朴的吊壁灯,漂亮的马赛克窗花和各具特色的廊柱,倒也让人不虚此行。总结一下,一共耗时一小时步行(往返)、三十分钟排队、一小时“参观”,为此次书展之行划上了圆满的句号。我们明年书展再见!

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壮观的正厅,人潮汹涌。
Huge crowds of people in the Central Hall.

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壮观的正厅,人潮汹涌。
Huge crowds of people in the Central Hall.

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随处可见精美的壁灯。
Elegant wall lamps are decorated everywhere.

Located on No.1333 Nanjing W. Road, the Shanghai Exhibition Center, also known as the Sino-Soviet Friendship Building, is the first Mega-structures built in Shanghai after 1950 and becomes a major landmark in Shanghai. Built in 1955, this building was to commemorate the alliance between China and the Soviet Union. According to this special history, the design combines the Russian Empire style with the Stalinist innovations. It has hosted many important political meetings and public events in the past decades. Nowadays, it is still a popular site to host major exhibitions and activities. (In 2015, Huang Xiaoming and Angela Baby, who are the celebrities in China, also hosted their wedding in this venue.)

The Friendship Hall is part of this large integrated building complex and makes up the northern end. A bronze sculpture “Running Horse” locates on the northern side of it, making this building more impressive. With the covered porches, the Friendship Hall is also connected with the other buildings and becomes an important section.

I am glad to have the opportunity to enter this historical building during 2018 Shanghai Book Fair, this Sunday. This is an annual event in Shanghai, attracting all the major booksellers and readers. As for me, visiting this featured and magnificent architecture is more attractive. Full of the featuring details, such as the spectacular hall, the amazing chandelier and so on, this building is the most distinctive part of the fair. And I am so full of excitement when entering the building, but so many visitors leave me breathless. Along with the others, I just pass the exhibition stands and browse quickly.

After all, I walk out of the crowds, as soon as possible, but still felt impressive on this featured architecture. Maybe I should pick a weekday instead of a weekend to revisit it in the future.

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All contents are created by @kidsreturn.
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